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Bizarre Cookbooks: Housekeeping in Old Virginia

3.26.2006
"Housekeeping in Old Virginia" (edited by Marion Cabell Tyree and originally published in 1879 by John P. Morton and Company), was heralded by the wife of a Kentucky governor as a "valuable addition to the domestic literature of our country." After reviewing it for several hours today, I couldn't agree more. Even today, this book is a remarkable time capsule of information about the everyday lives of the housekeepers and cooks of the day.

Mark, an out-of-town guest, brought along his beautiful edition, and I've been marveling over its various strange sauces (celery sauce? bay sauce?), catsup recipes (walnut, mushroom and cucumber, in addition to the now-ubiquitous tomato catsup), preparations from slaughter to supper table for livestock animals, and the partly-practical/partly-intimidating recipes for the sorts of products one might today seek out in the local drugstore.

Below, you'll find two of the book's edible recipe selections as well as some fascinating late 19th Century suggestions for various potions, cosmetics, remedies and supplies.


Bay Sauce.
One pound salt, one-half ounce cloves, four ounces ginger, all powdered; three handfuls garlic, three handfuls horseradish, scraped fine; six pods of red pepper, cut up fine. Gather leaves of black walnut when young, cut them up fine; put a layer of leaves in the bottom of a jar, then one of ingredients (mixed together), until the jar is filled; tie it up closely and set it in the sun for two weeks; then bottle for use. It is not good for six months. Some think two or three large onions an addition.
—Mrs. H. D.


Note to anyone who might actually attempt this recipe: Mrs. E.C. G.'s version of Bay Sauce proclaims it an excellent accompanyment to fish and recommends (in addition to the salt, garlic, horseradish, etc.) a half-dozen onions, allspice (instead of cloves), black pepper (instead of red) and enough cold vinegar to cover the salt-spice mixture before the fortnight-long stint in the sun.

I suspect (based on a recipe for Walnut Catsup from the Leaves, which is virtually identical to the Bay Sauce recipes) that the lack of vinegar in Mrs. H. D.'s Bay Sauce was a clerical error rather than a recipe decision.

"Old Virginia" also features a number of recipes using now-uncommon ingredients such as rain water, martinas and cymlings (a vegetable previously unknown to me).

Cymlings appear to be a variety of squash. They're used in a few "Old Virginia" recipes, including this one, which sounded particularly simple and tasty. Mmmm. Squash and bacon.


Cymlings Fried with Bacon.
Fry some slices of fat bacon in a pan. Remove the bacon when done and keep hot. Fry in the gravy some cymlings that have been boiled tender and cut in slices. While frying, mash fine with a large spoon, and add pepper and salt. Fry brown, and serve with the bacon, if you like. —Mrs. G. B.


The book ends with a great deal of practical advice that illuminates various conveniences a modern individual tends to take for granted. Store-bought ink, for example. The house-mistress of the era was apparently a chemist, butcher and pharmacist in addition to her work as a chef and cleaning lady.

Herein, then, I relay ten amusing pieces of 19th Century advice on remedies, potions and household supplies for which you, lucky 21st Century traveler, should be happy to have no use. Don't try these at home, folks. Really. Don't do it.


For Sore Throat.
Carbolic acid crystals, pure, half a drachm; tincture kino, one drachm; chlorate potash, two drachms; simple syrup, half an ounce. Water sufficient to make an eight-ounce mixture. Gargle the throat every few hours. —Dr. T.L. W.

Chill Pills.
Sulph quinine, two drachms; arsenious acid, one grain; strychia, one grain; Prussian Blue, twenty grains; powdered capsicum, one drachm. Mix, and make sixty pills. Take one pill three times a day. —Dr. E.A. C.

To Extinguish the Flames When the Clothing has Taken Fire.
First, throw the person on the ground to prevent the upward flames from being inhaled. Then quickly roll the person in a carpet hearth-rug or blanket; if neither is at hand, use any woolen garment, such as a cloat, overcoat, or cloak. Keep the blaze as much as possible from the face, wrapping the woolen garment first around the neck and shoulders. Jumping into bed and covering up with the bedclothes is also a good plan.

To Destroy Bedbugs.
Dissolve one ounce corrosive sublimate in one pint strong spirits. Put it on the bedsheets with a feather, and it will destroy the bugs and their eggs also. —Mrs. Dr. P. C.

Red Lip Salve.
Oil of sweet almonds, two ounces; pure olive-oil, six ounces; spermaceti, one and one-half ounce; white wax, one ounce. Color with carmine and perfume with oil of roses. —Dr. E.A. C.

For Diarrhea.
Take equal parts of laudinum, tincture capsicum, tincture camphor, and aromatic syrup rhubarb. Mix. Dose from half to a teaspoonful, in water, when needed. —Dr. E.A. C.

Black Ink.
Extract logwood (pulv.), two ounces; hot rain-water, one gallon; Simmer over a water-bath one hour, till logwood is dissolved. Put into a bottle the following: bichromate potass., one hundred grains; prus of potass., forty grains; warm rain-water, four ounces. Shake til dissolved, put into the logwood solution, stir well together, strain through flannel, and, when cold, add corrosive sublimate, ten grains; warm rain-water, one ounce. Dissolve thouroughly, put with the above and add pure carbolic acid crys., one drachm. This makes the black in the world, at a cost of about ten cents per gallon. —Dr. E.A. C.

Charcoal Tooth Powder.
Powdered charcoal, six ounces; gum myrrh, one ounce; pale Peruvian bark, one ounce. Mix thouroughly. —Dr. E.A. C.

To Renew Black Crape Veils.
Wring two large towels out of water. Then put the veil (folded across the middle, lengthwise) on the lower towel; spread the other on top and roll the veil, when between, in a small tight roll. Let stand an hour, or until it is damp through. Take it out and air it a little before it dries. Fold it then in smooth squares, put it in a large book, such as an atlas, put heavy weights on it and let it; stand an hour or two. —Mrs. M.C. C.

To Take Quinine Without Tasting It.
Put a little of the mucilage from slippery elm in a teaspoon. Drop the quinine on it, and put some mucilage on top. This will make the quinine slip down the throat without tasting leaving any taste.

 

3/27/2006 posted by Floh

I'd love to recommend The Thirteen Colonies Cookbook, by Mary Donovan, Amy Hatrak, Frances Mills and Elizabeth Shull.

a delicious taste of history!

see here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0961013818/104-8880420-1396710?vi=suite101-20&n=283155

a dear friend who resides in Connecticut sent this present to me.    



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The Foodie's Apocalypse Kit

3.22.2006
With pandemic paranoia pulsing in the press, the time seems ripe to discuss one of the treasures reaped from a recent bookshop foray: How to Develop a Low-Cost Family Food-Storage System by Anita Evangelista.

Sounds dull, right? The low-budget 1940s-era clip art on the cover might not convince you to give it whirl, either. But just wait until you find out what's on page two: Eleven Reasons to Store Food.

1. Severe seasonal weather, with road closures, power outages, and supermarkets depleted by panic buyers.
2. Natural disasters such as earthquakes, tidal waves, hurricanes, volcanoes, or tornadoes, with supermarkets unable to restock shelves.
3. Ecological disasters, such as the Three Mile Island nuclear facility's failure, and the contamination of foods.
4. The possibility of nuclear holocaust with all food deliveries suspended.
5. Tainted foodstuffs, either by purposeful maniacs (as in the "pain-killer poisonings") or improper processing (as in the glass fragments found in baby foods or the salmonella bacteria in dairy foods.
6. Riots, civil insurrection, collapse of local or regional governing bodies, gang warfare, looting, racial incidents; inability to shop at all.
7. Long-term illness.
8. Loss of employment and inability to secure a new job.
9. Strikes, either by truckers, food processors, food pickers or supermarket employees.
10. Destruction of standing food crops in farmers' fields, either willfully or by natural calamities.
11. Collapse of the currency system, and inability to purchase needed goods.

Wow! Choose your poison — that's enough paranoia for everyone!

Evangelista tours readers through the various practical traditional and non-traditional food acquisition systems (shopping, gardening, foraging, gleaning, etc.) and food preservation methods before pulling out the really fun stuff in Chapter Five: Where Do I Put It?

I was particularly interested in this section, thanks to my teensy New York apartment. What's a budding packrat to do, given a cramped kitchen and no closet space?

The easy answer? Five gallon plastic buckets. The path of dedication? Camouflage your booty by opening up the walls, installing interior shelving, replacing the wall and slapping on patch and paint 'til the evidence is invisible.

I know... you're saying to yourself, "I hate making trips to Home Depot. Why would I bother with all that?"

Ask anyone who's ever worked as a waiter or waitress whether they've found people to be on their best behavior when they're hungry. Now imagine a city full of cranky, hungry people. Now imagine a bunch of cranky, hungry neighbors busting into your nest and rooting for your neatly stored cans of black beans and your tasty treasure trove of apple sauce and your shiny silver cans of Le Sueur Baby Peas.

Good thing you plastered those cases of SPAM and light-syrup pineapple rings into your wall, right? Trust me... You'll thank Anita Evangelista later.

In all seriousness, there really is a chance that avian flu could wreak havoc (it happened in 1918), in which case it's good to have extra water and canned goods stuffed into your limited closets. Here's the Flu Wiki and advice from the Red Cross on all the stuff you should already have on hand anyway.

In addition to a solid first aid kit, a lot of water and all the items from FEMA's boring list of staples, from my personal apocalypse kit, I can recommend:

  • Tasty Bite Dinners.
    Indian and Thai curries! Far more flavorful than the standard shelf-stable MREs.

  • Amy's Kitchen organic soups.
    Soup is good food.

  • Desert Pepper Black Bean Dip.
    Because I'm an addict, okay?

  • Frontera Chipotle Salsa.
    This stuff could make cardboard taste good, and if I'm reduced to roasting rats, I want something nice to dip them in.

  • Jacques Torres Wicked Hot Chocolate Mix.
    It's yummy, and disasters are always short on yummy.

  • Orange-blossom honey and fruit jams from Sarabeth's (or homemade).
    Delightful with Carr's water crackers

  • Sardines in Hot Sauce or Mustard (Bumblebee sardines are good).
    Mmm... Sardines. I eat these even when I have fresh food around.

  • Muir Glen Crushed Tomatoes.
    So versatile, so delicious. And the cans are lined, so they don't have that awful "can" flavor.

  • Jars of spicy Spanish olives, oil-packed Italian tuna and jars of roasted red peppers.
    I reckon this'll make for good post-apocalyptic tapas.

  • Praline spread from Le Pain Quotidien.
    Again, seriously delicious. And yes, this stuff would make even my homemade hardtack edible.

  • Quality tea and coffee in factory-sealed containers.
    Lack of caffeine is a disaster unto itself.

  • Aseptic packs of Parmalat milk, Ceres fruit juices and Silk chocolate soy milk.
    Open a fresh container after the spare daily ration of rice and water grows tiresome.

  • Bottles of vodka and bourbon (or your favorite hard liquor).
    Barter with the neighbors for some of their Slim Jims. Disinfect a wound. Preserve fruit. Or just have a consolation drink. Liquor is endlessly useful in hard times.
 

3/26/2006 posted by Floh

Super stuff!

i seriously investigated MRE's aftr the New Orleans debacle.

then i forgot about my yearning to stock up, but your blog has given me renewed hope tht the future may not be so bleak if i follow your advice.

bird flu a dismal happening here in Europe. :(    



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Food Quote Friday: Grimod de la Reyniere

3.17.2006
Life is so brief that we should not glance either too far backwards or
forwards... therefore study how to fix our happiness in our glass and
in our plate.

Grimod de la Reyniere (1758-1838)


Still hungry? Sample a few more from the food quote archive.
 

3/26/2006 posted by Floh

Life is too brief not to try The Hedonista's Summer Tomato Sandwich many times!

excellent. i've had a love of tomato sandwiches all my life!

http://www.missginsu.com/2004/08/damn-fine-tomato-moments.html

often, simple is best. :)    



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St. Helen: Patron of Brunchtime Wonder

3.16.2006
St Helen Cafe
Front window, St. Helen Cafe


St Helen Cafe Hot Chocolate
Damn fine hot chocolate


Goat-Cheese Bake
Baked goat cheese & pears with toast

The service is slow. We are unconcerned.

At Enid's, mere blocks away, we'd still be shifting weight on the corner with the cattle-call throng of hipsters in leather boots and vintage accessories. We'd wait for Gelles and watch jealously, hungrily, as group after group of brunchkateers hear the tables calling. They sashay through the velvet curtains, coffee cups sloshing. They will eat. You will wait.

Here at St. Helen, we are waiting on slow service, yes, but we are shocked to find ourselves sitting. We have coffee.

Gelles won't arrive for another 45 minutes. When he does materialize, the rest of us will have just received our lovingly baked dishes. He will look at our hot plates, look at his watch, order a coffee and bemoan his bad parking karma.

The coffee is good. The hot chocolate is surprisingly good. There is much in the way of toast. There is Nutella. The food is unrushed, unfussy and affectionately prepared in the way our mothers might, if they were professional cooks with a well-stocked kitchens and really good knives.

There is much wood here. One tries to remember what the space looked like before St. Helen Cafe opened. How much of the detail is old? How much is cleverly made to look old?

The decor — including the clean bird-and-axe crest — is so deftly tapped into the past year's sweetly creepy whitewashed sparrow-vine-and-deer trend, it gives off an uneasy vibe. One is almost scared to be seen in it, lest the fad crest, fall and froth into the shamefully passé during the few moments while our eggs cool.

Thankfully, the trend holds, the eggs satisfy, the lattes are lovely and the check is very reasonable. No mean feat in brunch-mad Sunday morning Williamsburg. Thank you, St. Helen, for small miracles.


St. Helen Cafe
150 Wythe Ave.
(Btwn 6th & 7th)
Brooklyn, NY
718-302-1197

 

3/17/2006 posted by Floh

One blog and i'm hooked on your site. i doubt i'll ever be lucky enough to visit St. Helen, being a continent away, but i'm going to be pouring over all you have to say (and show) about food, glorious food!

thank you for being there! :)    



3/17/2006 posted by MissGinsu

Aw, that's too kind of you to say!

If you ever visit NYC, let me know, so I can point you down the path of maximum delight for the dollar!

Best,
Miss G.    



3/18/2006 posted by Floh

Last time i visited NYC was over 15 years ago (went to La Luna in Little Italy if i recall correctly) -- i'd love another shot and you can bet i'll contact you if i ever get the chance to go again. :)

i should be in Las Vegas, Portland, Oregon, Salem, Oregon, Montana for Custer's Last Stand re-enactment and Utah sometime in June.

i'm most certainly planning to go to a restaurant recommended by my cousin in Las Vegas called Rosemary's.

here is Rosemary's Restaurant website (it happens to be a link to her recipes, this one) and cousin loved the Rosemary’s Buttermilk Roasted Rack of Lamb with Black Olive Creamed Potatoes, Fried Arugula and Rosemary Lamb Jus. i'll have that then! :)

http://www.rosemarysrestaurant.com/recipes.html

Regards, Floh    



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Food Quote Friday: Basho

3.03.2006
Let's peel cucumbers
pick up fallen red apples
for our supper

Matsuo Bashō (1644-1694)
 

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