Ballyhoo v. Dope: Pierre Herme Bonbons

Photo: FreshDirect

The object: Pierre Hermé Assorted Bonbons
The source: FreshDirect
The schtick: The master chocolatier of Paris and Tokyo pitches a pretty carton of unconventionally flavored chocolates
The damage: $42 for a box of 36

The verdict: Contrary to what one might gather from his press release,
Hermés flavors aren't so innovative as to be considered palate aggression (dark chocolates with yuzu and lime do not make one the Ferran Adrià of pastry, after all).

That said, he cares very much about the ingredients that go into his wares, so his bonbons really are powerful. There's no question as to whether you just enjoyed the salted caramel or the ginger confit. The box includes a guide (hope you remember your high school French... it ain't translated),
but you shouldn't need to use it. The Balthazar is clearly milk chocolate with cinnamon... and not just that dusty cinnamon you keep in your pantry, either. Think: sweet and spicy like fresh China Cassia.

The box includes some comforting modern standards: raspberry-dark chocolate, ginger-dark chocolate, passionfruit-milk chocolate, but my favorites were the more unusual flavors: Sensations (a dark chocolate praline with the flavor of burnt toast); Ouvre-toi (a nutty sesame crème with crunchy sesame seeds and milk chocolate) and Garance (fig paste with chocolate-raspberry ganache).

Ultimately, it's a lovely collection, but I think equally tasty chocolates can be found from less far afield. Hermé thankfully, hasn't cornered the market on yummy.

Were I to buy this assortment of delights, I'd cut each chocolate into thirds with a sharp knife. Even a sliver of these confections will translate flavor potent enough to satisfy a curious palate. It's also important to remember that everything tastes better when it's shared.