Oh! Sweet. Fleeting. Spell...

Brunch is a safer bet if you really want to score a seat.

Barrio Chino on the NYC Lower East Side:

• A rich, smoky reposado tequila, flanked by sangrita, mango and jicama.


• Exposed brick walls that float fancifully suspended cocktail umbrellas.


• A cool mojito with coconut. Take it sweet or savory. They mull your mint and pinch your juicy lime wedges to order, naturally...


• Fish tacos the like of which you haven't seen since that week on the Yucatán.


• Sangria that rolls heady and silken across the tongue with easy, even balance such that a first sip is enough to renew your sense of wonder at how people can drink — much less claim to enjoy — the world's lesser cocktails.

Arrive at 7. This laid-back shop of delights is all yours. But don't get smug. You'll find your little treasure must be soon be shared with the rest of New York, all of whom will attempt to press their shapely frames through the door within two hours' time. Sip your nectar slowly and savor the moment while you can.


Barrio Chino
253 Broome St.
(Btwn Orchard & Ludlow)
212-228-6710