Miss Ginsu: Intrepid Culinary Explorer

The Weird, Wild World of Licorice


Ceci n'est pas une pipe

I don't believe Mr. Spock was referring to specifically to candy when he wondered at the universe's "infinite divirsity in infinite combinations," but it would have been appropriate commentary.

I've had plenty of German Kinder Eggs and weird gummi shapes, an assortment of oddball Japanese candies. I've tried rosewater and sesame-flavored sweets brought back from India, acid drops from England, and Polish bonbons in pretty packages from my neighborhood shops. Lately I've been addicted to the "White Rabbit" lychee taffies I find in Chinatown.

I kind of thought I'd seen it all... until this morning, when I discovered there's a whole new world of licorice beyond the dark and moody candy pipes of my youth. A coworker offered me a sample of Dutch "Dubble Zout," a salty dark licorice that promptly made me run for the nearest trash can. But it's apparently a favorite among licorice afficianados... Licorice International, sellers of "Black Licorice from Around the World" calls it a best seller.

Apricot and licorice. Halva and licorice. Salmiak and licorice. Honey and licorice. Mint and licorice. A legion of salty licorice candies that taste like mineral-infused blacktop. And a world of infinitly diverse people that love 'em.

Dang it, it brings a tear to my eye. Or maybe it's just watering from the lingering taste of ammonium chloride and licorice.

12.08.2004

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